Motor City Pilgrimage, Part Two: Cars
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Last week was Motown and soul food — this week we follow the assembly line north to Pontiac and south through Woodward, ending with dinner above the GM tower before it goes dark for good. Bring a full tank; this whole thing runs on pavement.
Last week, I made a tough decision to have week one be about Motown and soul food. This week we explore that other little thing Detroit is known for. With this plan I wanted to do a little more than just go to museums — though we'll do that too. Let's get out in the streets.
Rhetorical question: does metro Detroit start and end on Woodward? Well, regardless of your answer, this Saturday does. We're starting at Avon Donuts. As you approach, you'll see M1 Concourse across the street. For over a century, that land built trucks — the Rapid Motor Company arrived in 1905, GM made it Pontiac West Assembly, and the lines ran until 2008. Avon Donuts has been a fixture across the street for over 30 years. My grandfather worked at that plant. Occasionally, I imagine him getting breakfast before a shift the way my mom would get my brother and me donuts before school, if we were extra good that morning.
After breakfast, a closer look at M1 Concourse is an option — there's a parking lot on South Boulevard across the street, and there's a karting event that starts at 9 a.m. After you've had your fill, we'll be heading north on Woodward. On your way to the Stellantis North American headquarters on the corner of Opdyke and Featherstone, you'll see an Amazon fulfillment center. As you cross Opdyke, you'll start to see the Stellantis headquarters on your left.
Readers of a certain age may remember when the fulfillment center was the site of the Pontiac Silverdome, former home of the Detroit Lions — but I'd like to point out some other tidbits. The Silverdome was one of the venues that hosted the 1994 World Cup, and interestingly, it hosted the first World Cup games ever played indoors. There's something about that mile or so that gets me. It might be that my childhood home was across M-59. I remember hearing the crowd cheer from the backyard when the Lions scored, and the roar of monster trucks when there was an event. I think it's a bit more than that, though. I think it's the juxtaposition of a legacy company and Amazon staring each other down, where history was bulldozed. I suppose history may be too strong a word. Memories. What is history but the memories of the collective.
No real plans here — just a drive-by and a fleeting thought.
It should be lunchtime by now, and we're heading back to Woodward for sliders, fries, and shakes at Hunter House. Named for John W. Hunter, who helped found Birmingham in 1819, Hunter House has been serving sliders for over 70 years. After that pit stop we'll continue down Woodward to the Detroit Historical Museum, where the permanent installation "America's Motor City" tells, in the museum's words, "the fascinating stories of both how cars built metro Detroit and how metro Detroit built cars." Take in as much as you want, or spend some time shopping downtown or on the riverwalk until your reservation at Highlands.
Located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the General Motors Renaissance Center, you'll be dining with spectacular views of Detroit and our neighbors to the north (technically, from where you'll be dining, they're our neighbors to the south too).
So, while Saturday was Woodward-focused, there was an obvious omission: Ford. While I could have incorporated it into Saturday's outing, I believe our Sunday plan makes a nice contrast. Saturday we traveled the length of Woodward; Sunday we take in history and culture in Dearborn. Greenfield Village and The Henry Ford Museum — a combo ticket gets you into both. Edison's lab and the Wright brothers' bicycle shop give some contemporary reference to the technology and innovation of the times these companies were started in. We end the evening at Al Ameer, a Dearborn original open since 1989. I hope you're as excited as I am.
See you there.
— Evan
— Evan, Be There
Saturday, Aug 1
9:00 AM
Avon Donuts
45324 Woodward Ave, Pontiac, MI
A Pontiac institution since the 40s, open Saturdays 6 AM-1 PM — grab the classics before the car crowd arrives.
9:45 AM
M1 Concourse
1 Concourse Dr, Pontiac, MI
The old Pontiac West Assembly land — Rapid Motor Company 1905, GM trucks until 2008, a race paddock now. Karting event from 9 a.m.; spectator parking in the lot on South Boulevard across the street.
11:00 AM
Stellantis North America HQ (drive-by)
1000 Chrysler Dr, Auburn Hills, MI
No public tours — just the campus from the car window. En route, note the Silverdome's old footprint on Opdyke Rd, now an Amazon warehouse; keep driving.
12:30 PM
Hunter House Hamburgers
35075 Woodward Ave, Birmingham, MI
Sliders and shakes on Woodward since 1952 — open Saturdays from 10 AM. The drive south from here into downtown IS the story: Woodward Avenue, the auto industry's main street.
2:30 PM
Detroit Historical Museum
5401 Woodward Ave, Detroit, MI
The permanent "America's Motor City" installation — how cars built metro Detroit and metro Detroit built cars. Open Saturdays 10-5; docent-led tours most Saturdays. Free time downtown or on the riverwalk after, until your Highlands reservation.
7:30 PM
Highlands
400 Renaissance Center, Floors 71-72, Detroit, MI
Dinner at the top of the GM Renaissance Center. GM is moving to Hudson's and Highlands closes in May 2027 — this view, from this tower, has a countdown on it. Reservations strongly recommended.
Sunday, Aug 2
9:30 AM
Greenfield Village
20900 Oakwood Blvd, Dearborn, MI
Opens 9:30 AM Sundays — Edison's lab, the Wright brothers' bicycle shop, the whole prehistory of Ford before there was a Ford.
1:00 PM
The Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation
20900 Oakwood Blvd, Dearborn, MI
Same campus, combo ticket covers both — closes at 5 PM sharp, so don't linger too long over the assembly-line exhibits. Catch 'Handmade: The Crafting of America' while you're in there.
6:00 PM
Al Ameer
12710 W Warren Ave, Dearborn, MI
A Dearborn original since 1989 and a James Beard American Classic — Michigan's first. Open Sundays until 10.
Two dinners this weekend cost real money — where do we splash out?
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